Keeping track of who designs what has become half the sport of fashion week. Creative directors arrive, leave and reshuffle with a speed that would have seemed improbable in the Lagerfeld era — and with the New York, London, Milan and Paris spring/summer 2027 calendars approaching, a fresh roll-call is useful.
Vanity Fair Italia published a wide roundup this week of the designers currently steering the main luxury houses. Below we pull out the headline moves that are shaping what you will see on the runway — and, by extension, in jewellery, bags and everyday finishing pieces such as rings and necklaces.
New names at the biggest houses
At Balenciaga, London designer Martine Rose takes over as creative director from 16 November 2026, succeeding Pierpaolo Piccioli. Kering confirmed the appointment on 6 November; Vogue and Business of Fashion both noted that Rose will be the first woman to lead the house in its more than century-long history.
Elsewhere the map has already settled into a new pattern. Jonathan Anderson now oversees Dior menswear, womenswear and haute couture; Matthieu Blazy is artistic director at Chanel after Bottega Veneta; Demna leads Gucci; Louise Trotter is at Bottega Veneta; Maria Grazia Chiuri has returned to Fendi; and Sarah Burton is at Givenchy after her long tenure at Alexander McQueen. At Loewe, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez succeeded Anderson; at Versace, Pieter Mulier has stepped in after a brief Dario Vitale season.
Open seats — and shorter tenures
Not every chair is filled. Kering announced in mid-October that Seán McGirr is leaving Alexander McQueen after three years, with new leadership still to be named. Vanity Fair Italia also lists vacant creative roles at Alaïa, Bally, Calvin Klein Collection, Diesel, Etro and Saint Laurent following recent exits, including Anthony Vaccarello’s departure from Saint Laurent.
The broader point of the roundup is tempo. Multi-decade reigns are rare; founders such as Ann Demeulemeester, Dries Van Noten and Tom Ford have already handed their labels to successors; and even celebrated appointments can last only a handful of seasons. For shoppers, that churn shows up quickly in silhouette, hardware and colour — which is why a clear “who designs what” list matters as much as any single show review.
Sources: Vanity Fair Italia; Kering (Martine Rose / Balenciaga); Vogue; Business of Fashion; Kering (Seán McGirr / McQueen).
